Of Kebaya, Kerosang, Kasut Manek and Anting-Anting
Dressing a Nonya in a kebaya is akin to putting rainbow food coloring into a Peranakan Kueh Lapis Sagu (9 layers kueh). The brighter, the better. The Nonya Kebaya, in my humble opinion, is hardly humble. It is intricately detailed, outrageously colored, and intentionally sexy by traditional and cultural standards. I recall vividly as a child, the sight of both my Mamah (my paternal grandma) and Dua Yipoh (my grandaunt) in their Nonya Kebayas - the sheer material hardly concealing their nude-colored brassieres and I thought to myself: “Oh, Mamah is so daring!” The Nonya Kebaya was never meant to be discreet. On the contrary, it was made for audacious flamboyance.
And I love it.
A figure-hugging, translucent blouse with embroidered motifs such as butterflies, foliage, flowers, insects and phoenixes, this form-fitting blouse is worn over an inner garment (a nude bra in Mamah’s time) – or a camisole in modern days, and secured at the front by a kerosang (a set of three interlinked brooches). The sleeves of the Nonya Kebaya end above the wrists, as the Nonyas like to show off their jewellery. The same can be said for the length of the complementing batik sarong, which concludes above the ankles to flaunt the Peranakan hand-beaded slippers or kasut manek.
As with all things Peranakan, traditional kebayas, kerosang, kasut maneks were all hand made. Peranakan jewellery was no exception. Handmade in gold (or silver for mourning), berlian (a diamond that is cut in a fashion to maximise its brilliance) and intan (a rough cut diamond) in elaborate designs, Peranakan jewellery was made to be worn, seen and to knock your socks off. A pair of Anting-Anting (earrings) makes the difference between pulling off the ‘Nonya look’ and a ‘put-together Nonya’. Believe me, accessories always help.
Today, as I embark on re-discovering my Nonya roots, I relish in bringing a contemporary touch to traditional Peranakan jewellery with semiprecious gemstones, while retaining the handmade element our forefathers so adamantly insist on. Of course, never venturing too far from the myriad of colours and vibrant influences that make the Peranakans the intriguing tribe we are.
I invite you into my world of Peranakan-inspired Anting-Antings from my Little Nonya Collection. And like a hospitable Peranakan, you’re welcome to stay.